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Test drive and inspection checklist

What to look at, listen for and test when you view a used car, from the cold start to the final questions.

Updated 14 October 2026 · 5 minute read

Records tell you a car's history. An inspection tells you its condition today. You do not need to be a mechanic to spot most problems, just methodical. Keep this list on your phone, and do not let the seller hurry you.

Before you go

Run the free check for the MOT history and mileage, and the full history check for finance, write-offs and stolen markers. Note anything the last MOT advised so you can look at it on the day.

Arrive prepared

  • View in daylight and, ideally, in the dry. Rain hides paint problems.
  • Ask the seller not to start the car before you arrive, so you can hear it start from cold.
  • Take someone with you. A second pair of eyes helps, and it is safer.
  • Bring a torch and a 20p coin for checking tread depth, and make sure you are insured to drive the car before the test drive.
  • Bring the advert, printed or as a screenshot, so you can check the car against what was promised.

Bodywork and outside

  • Walk round slowly. Look along each side for ripples, dents and paint that does not quite match.
  • Check the gaps between panels are even. Uneven gaps can mean accident repairs.
  • Look for overspray on rubber seals, trim and glass.
  • Check for rust around the wheel arches, the sills and the bottoms of the doors.
  • Look at the windscreen for chips and cracks.
  • Check all the lights and lenses for cracks or condensation.
  • Check the VIN at the base of the windscreen matches the logbook. Our VIN guide shows where else to look.

Tyres and wheels

  • Check the tread on every tyre, and on the spare if there is one. The legal minimum for cars is 1.6mm across the central three-quarters of the tread, all the way round.
  • Uneven wear, such as one edge worn more than the other, can mean the alignment or suspension needs attention.
  • A mix of budget tyres can suggest an owner who cut corners.
  • Look for kerbed or damaged wheels.

Under the bonnet

  • Check the oil level. A milky residue under the oil filler cap can point to a head gasket problem, although short journeys can also cause it.
  • Check the coolant level with the engine cold. Never open a hot cooling system.
  • Look for leaks, fresh oil on the engine, and signs of a recent steam clean that might hide them.
  • Listen to the engine start from cold for rattles, knocks or a struggle to start.
  • Look for blue or thick white smoke from the exhaust once it starts.

Inside

  • Turn the ignition on. Every warning light should come on, then go off once the engine starts. A light that never comes on may have been disabled.
  • Test the air conditioning, heater, windows, mirrors, central locking, infotainment screen and every switch.
  • Check the seat belts pull out smoothly and lock when tugged.
  • Look for damp: lift the mats and smell the carpets. A musty smell can mean a leak.
  • Compare the wear on the steering wheel, pedals and driver's seat with the mileage. See how to spot a clocked car.
  • Check the spare wheel or tyre repair kit, the jack and the locking wheel nut key are all there.

The test drive

Drive for at least 20 minutes if you can, on a mix of roads including a faster one. Start with the radio off so you can listen.

  1. 1Pulling awayThe clutch should bite smoothly, not right at the top of the pedal. On an automatic, gear changes should be smooth, with no jerks or slipping.
  2. 2GearsGo through every gear, including reverse. Crunching, or a lever that jumps out of gear, is a warning sign.
  3. 3BrakesOn a safe, quiet road, brake firmly. The car should stop in a straight line without pulling, juddering or squealing.
  4. 4SteeringOn a straight road, the car should not pull to one side. The steering should feel even, with no knocking when you turn it fully while parking.
  5. 5SuspensionDrive over a few bumps. Listen for knocks and clonks, and feel for a car that keeps bouncing.
  6. 6EngineIt should pull smoothly through the revs, with no hesitation, warning lights or unusual noises. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge.
  7. 7ParkingReverse into a space, using the parking sensors or camera if the car has them. On a slope, check the handbrake holds the car.
  8. 8After the driveLeave the engine running, look underneath for drips and check the exhaust for smoke. Make sure the warning lights are still off.

Electric and hybrid cars

  • Ask for the charging cables, and check they suit the charger you plan to use at home or on the road.
  • Check the range shown on the dashboard when the battery is full, and ask the seller what range they get in cold weather.
  • Ask whether the battery is still covered by the manufacturer's warranty, and for how long.
  • On a hybrid, check the car switches smoothly between electric and engine power.

Paperwork to see on the day

Ask to see the V5C logbook, the service history, receipts for recent work and the spare key. Missing keys and missing paperwork both cost money to put right, so factor them into your offer.

Questions to ask

  • How long have you owned it, and why are you selling?
  • Has it had any accident damage or paintwork?
  • When was the cambelt last changed, if it has one?
  • Were the last MOT advisories fixed? Can I see the receipts?
  • Is there any outstanding finance? A finance check will confirm the answer.

If in doubt, get it inspected

For an expensive car, or if anything worries you, pay for an independent inspection. It costs far less than a big repair, and a seller who refuses one is telling you something.

If the car passes, follow the rest of our used car buying checklist for paying safely, taxing the car and setting up MOT and tax reminders.