When an insurer decides a damaged or stolen car is not worth repairing, it pays the owner out and the car is written off. That does not always mean the car is scrapped. Depending on the category, it may be repaired and sold again, and you could be looking at one without knowing.
The four categories since October 2017
Insurers follow a code of practice that sorts written-off cars into four categories.
| Category | What it means | Back on the road? |
|---|---|---|
| A | Scrap entirely. The whole car must be destroyed. | Never |
| B | The body must be crushed. Some parts may be salvaged and reused. | Never |
| S | Structural damage, such as to the chassis or crumple zones. | Yes, once properly repaired |
| N | Non-structural damage, such as cosmetic or electrical damage. | Yes, once repaired |
Category A and B cars should never be offered for sale as working cars. If you see one advertised as roadworthy, walk away. The category is decided by the insurer's assessor, based on the damage they find, and the record stays with the car through every future sale.
The old categories: C and D
Before October 2017 the categories were A, B, C and D. A and B meant much the same as they do now. C and D were based on cost rather than the type of damage:
- Category C: the cost of repair was more than the car was worth.
- Category D: the car could be repaired for less than its value, but the insurer decided to pay out instead.
The problem with C and D was that neither told you whether the damage was structural. An expensive car with light damage could be Category D, and a cheap car with structural damage could also be D if the repair cost less than the car's value. S and N describe the damage itself, which is more useful to a buyer. You will still see C and D on older records.
How the Vettly Score treats write-offs
In the full history check, a Category A or B write-off costs 50 points, Category S or the old C costs 30, and Category N or the old D costs 15. If no category is recorded, it costs 25. See how the Vettly Score works.
Why insurers write off repairable cars
A car can be written off even when the damage looks minor. Insurers compare the cost of repair with the car's value, and add the other costs of a claim, such as a hire car while it is repaired. On an older car, a modest repair bill can be more than the car is worth. Modern cars with airbags, sensors and cameras can also be expensive to put right after what looks like a small knock.
Cars recovered after being stolen can be written off too, once the insurer has already paid out. That is why the type of loss matters as much as the category. A write-off is a financial decision as much as a safety one.
Should you buy a Category S or N car?
It can be a sensible buy, but only with your eyes open.
- Price: it should cost noticeably less than the same car with a clean history. Use the valuation from the full check, where available, as a clean-car starting point and expect a discount.
- Repair quality: ask who repaired it, and ask for photos and invoices. A Category S repair should be done by a reputable body shop.
- Inspection: have it checked by an independent engineer, especially after structural repairs. Uneven panel gaps, mismatched paint and uneven tyre wear can all point to poor work.
- Insurance: tell your insurer about the write-off. Some charge more, and some may not offer cover. Get a quote before you buy.
- Resale: it will be worth less when you sell, and you should tell the next buyer.
A seller should always tell you
A car sold without mentioning a known write-off may not be as described. If a seller has not mentioned a write-off and a check finds one, treat everything else they have told you with caution.
Questions to ask the seller about a write-off
- When was it written off, and what was the damage?
- Who repaired it, and can I see the invoices and photos?
- Has it been inspected since the repair, and by whom?
- Has it had any problems since it went back on the road?
- How long have you owned it, and did you know it was a write-off when you bought it?
How to check a car's write-off history
- 1Run the full history checkThe write-off check is part of the full history check, which costs £4.49, or £3.00 a check in a pack of 10. It uses the insurance industry's write-off register and shows the category, the date and the type of loss.
- 2Read the free MOT historyA long gap between MOT tests, or a sudden change in the advisories, can hint at time off the road for repairs. The MOT history check is free.
- 3Look for colour changesThe full check lists colour changes. A respray can be innocent, but it can also follow accident repairs.
- 4Inspect the carLook for the physical signs of repair. Our test drive and inspection checklist shows what to look for.
If you find out after you have bought it
If a check reveals a write-off you were not told about, gather your evidence: the advert, your messages with the seller and the report. Whether you bought privately or from a dealer, the car must be as described, and from a dealer you also have rights under the Consumer Rights Act 2015. Our guide to buying privately or from a dealer explains your rights, and Citizens Advice can help you decide what to do. If you bought from a dealer, act quickly: the short-term right to reject lasts 30 days.